The third seasonal menu of Pöllöwaari’s 25th celebratory year is “The Earth”. Springtime sun awakens the nature to new growth and gradually green tones surround us. Asparagus is at its best during April and May, so naturally this magnificent ingredient deserves a delicious menu dedicated to it.
The wines for the menu are from two German producers, Becker-Landgraf from Rheihessen and Weingut Weegmüller from Pfalz. The estate of Becker-Landgraf is also known as J2 which refers to owners first names, Johannes and Julia. The small vineyard, less than four hectares, manufactures earthy and organically produced sparkling, white, red and even dessert wines. Weingut Weegmüller, a winery run by two sisters, creates organically both dry and sweet wines from white grapes and they are the 11th generation of winemakers in this family-owned estate.
The menu begins with an aromatic and soft-flavored asparagus mousse that is enhanced with pickled spring vegetables, further enriched with parmesan shavings and crisp sesame seed cracker. The radiant colors are brought together with a foamy shallot-sabayon. The delicate roasted nuances of the sparkling wine made from Riesling grapes from Becker-Landgraf can only be described with the starter as a match made in heaven. The sparkling wine is named “Theo” after the youngest son of the winemakers and it’s a combination of delicate aromas, citric flavors surrounded with floral and vanilla notes.
The second course combines green asparagus with the best delicacies of the sea- scallops, lobster and scampi tails topped off with a classic, rich hollandaise. The grilling of the seafood brings out the fullness and natural sweetness of the ingredients which are beautifully accompanied by a tenderly oaked Riesling from J2. This so called “village wine” comes from the town of Gau-Odernheim.
The main course is a marriage of supple veal, shallot crème, crunchy white asparagus and earthy lightly seared mushrooms. When added a top-quality Pinot Noir “Muschelkalk”, the combination will surely bring a smile to your face. The slate stone soil, from which the name Muschelkalk comes from, gives this Pinot Noir- wine flavors of red berries and a hint of spiciness. The vintage of 2010 is the first in its kind.
The Earth menu is completed with a dessert originating from Britain. The lemon posset is at the same time both rich and creamy and zesty fresh. Even more fruitiness is added by a peach-lime salad and softness by the vanilla-mascarpone sorbet. When adding the Weegmüller’s dessert wine, made of Scheurebe grapes, this combination is bound to please your palate. The grape variety was originally developed in Germany by a Dr. Scheu (= shy) in 1916 from Riesling and a wild grape variety that has since disappeared.
Menu 63 €
Wines for the menu 43 €
Non alcoholic beverages 24 €
Amuse-Bouche
Asparagus mousse with pickled spring vegetables, parmesan cheese and sesame seed leaf
Theo Brut 2009,
Deutscher Sekt, Weingut Becker-Landgraf, Rheinhessen, Germany 12 cl
Grilled crustaceans with green asparagus and hollandaise sauce
Gau-Odernheimer Riesling 2010
Qualitätswein Rheinhessen, Weingut Becker-Landgraf, Germany 12 cl
Fillet of veal with white asparagus, shiitake mushrooms and shallot onion cream
Muschelkalk Spätburgunder 2010
Qualitätswein Rheinhessen, Weingut Becker-Landgraf, Germany 16 cl
Lemon posset with peach-lime salad and vanilla mascarpone sherbet
Scheurebe Auslese “Verführung der Sinne” 2011,
Prädikatswein Pfalz, Weingut Weegmüller, Germany 4 cl